Iceland’s Highlands by 4×4

DAY 1 : ARRIVAL, KEFLAVIK – HVERAGERÐI

Upon arrival at Keflavík International Airport, you pick up your pre-booked rental car. If you arrive in the morning you might want to stop by at the Blue Lagoon on the way to your accomodation. Just a short drive from the Blue Lagoon is the small fishing village Grindavík with its saltfish museum. Follow the southern coast of the Reykjanes peninsula in direction to Hveragerði, a village known for its hot springs and the cultivation of flowers and vegetables in greenhouses based on geothermal energy. Along the route you can make a wish at legendary Strandakirkja church, which is said to bring fortune to its visitors. Stay overnight in Hveragerði/Selfoss area.

Suggested activity: Blue Lagoon.

DAY 2 : THE GOLDEN CIRCLE – KERLINGARFJÖLL

Visit the UNESCO World Heritage Site and national park Þingvellir. A walk through the Almannagjá canyon is an introduction to both geology and Icelandic history, as it marks the boundary of the rift valley between the tectonic plates and leads you to the ancient Viking parliament site. From here, your journey takes you through the village Laugarvatn called after its natural steam springs right next to a lake. At the local Fontana Spa & Wellness Centre you have the opportunity to energize body and soul with steam bathing and a dip in the lake. Your next highlight is the famous Geysir geothermal area, where you are sure to witness the very active geyser Strokkur erupting spectacularly at intervals of only a few minutes. Only a 10 minutes‘ drive away, the majestic, so-called golden waterfall Gullfoss falls over two steps and thunders down into a deep canyon.

Your 4×4 highland adventure through the interior begins only a few kilometres from Gullfoss. The road 35 turns here into [the rather bumpy] gravel road (F35) Kjölur, actually an ancient highland trail already used by the early settlers. Roughly a third of the way over Kjölur, you take a right turn (F347) towards the highland centre of Kerlingarfjöll, a marvelous hiking area with geothermal activity. Stay overnight in Kerlingafjöll.

DAY 3 : TO THE NORTH VIA KJÖLUR HIGHLAND ROAD

Morning exploring the geothermal area in Kerlingafjöll. Back on the Kjölur route, you drive through the rough, desertic landscapes until you reach Hveravellir, another enchanting geothermal zone and nature reserve. Due to its great glacier views, Hveravellir is said to be the most beautiful spot for dipping into a geothermal spring and of course makes a good place for a pleasant hike, too. It is also known as a hide-out of Iceland‘s most famous outlaw, Fjalla-Eyvindur, who used to live here with his woman Halla for some time.

You can choose between two routes in order to get to the Skagafjörður area. Either follow the Kjölur route until you come to the ring road, or drive through the valleys of Haukadalur and Mælifellsdalur. The second route is somewhat slower, so you need to allow more time for it than for the first. Stay overnight in Skagafjörður area.

DAY 4 – SKAGAFJÖRÐUR – TRÖLLASKAGI – AKUREYRI

From Reykir, north of the village Sauðárkrókur – the largest town in Skagafjörður, you can join an adventure tour by boat to the island of Drangey. Another option is taking a dip in the natural pool Grettislaug which is located directly on the coast. If you have time and are interested, visit the local folk museum in Glaumbær and the small church built of turf in Víðimýri.

After exploring Sauðárkrókur and near by area you drive over to the east coast of Skagafjörður and then north and around Tröllaskagi peninsula. The splendid outdoor swimming pool in Hofsós is the perfect spot for enjoying a beautiful view of the fjord. From Hofsós you drive onwards to Siglufjörður, Iceland‘s former main centre for herring fisheries and processing. You can also find an interesting exhibition on Icelandic folk music here. Leave Siglufjörður throug a tunnel that brings you to Ólafsfjörður fjord and the fishing village of the same name. From Ólafsfjörður you drive onwards to the coast of Eyjafjörður fjord and then Dalvík fishing village. From Dalvík it is possible to take a whale watching tour. If you have enough time and have the interest to do so you can drive into Svarfaðardalur valley near Dalvík. This valley offers a nice view of mountains and farmland. It even features some small glaciers of its own. Stay overnight in Akureyri area.

Suggested activity: 100% Whale watching from Hauganes.

DAY 5 – HÚSAVÍK – ÁSBYRGI – DETTIFOSS – MÝVATN

Leave Akureyri area in the morning and visit Goðafoss waterfall before reaching Húsavík, the Whale watching capital of Iceland. Follow road 85 until you reach Ásbyrgi, a wide, horseshoe-shaped canyon with sheer cliff faces up to 100 m high and a lot of vegetation. Hikers can choose between easier and more challenging routes to explore area, e.g. to the pond at the bottom of the canyon or even up to the top of the cliffs. From here you can enjoy an amazing view over the horseshoe-mark which, according to the legend, was formed by a step of Odin‘s eight-legged horse Sleipnir. From Ásbyrgi you go to Dettifoss, Europe’s most powerful waterfall, via road 862. End the day in Lake Mývatn area where you can dip into the Mývatn Nature Baths if you like. Stay 2 nights in Mývatn area.

Suggested activity: Mývatn Nature Baths – Admission.

DAY 6 – MÝVATN – ASKJA – MÝVATN

Today you will go for an adventurous tour into the desertlike highlands, to the breathtaking area of Askja volcano, a complex of calderas in the Dyngjufjöll mountains located north of Vatnajökull. With an appropriate 4×4 vehicle at your disposal and being up for crossing a few rivers, you can do this unforgettable tour on your own. You can also choose to do this excursion with guide, in Super Jeep tour (optional excursion, extra cost). You leave Mývatn on road 1 (heading east), turn right onto road 901, then onto mountain road F905 and F910 ovward to Drekagil. On this route you will have to cross two (usually small) fords. The mountain road F894 (8 km) takes you from Drekagil to the car park at Vikraborgir. A different, but more difficult option, leads from road 1 to mountain road F88 via the oasis Herðubreiðarlindir to Drekagil, passing closer by Mt. Herðubreið, the „queen of the Icelandic mountains“. Taking this road means crossing the two rivers Grafarlandsá and Lindá. Please consider that the fords hare can be difficult or even impassable for small jeeps. Askja‘s impressive main caldera has a size of 50km2, while a smaller caldera in its south-east corner is filled by Iceland‘s second deepest lake, Lake Öskjuvatn. The crater Víti, formed during the vast eruption in 1875, contrasts with its milky-turquoise water right next to the Lake. With an average temperature of 30°C, Víti is a popular bathing spot. The descending path to the water can be very slippery in rainy weather, so be careful if you plan to take a dip here.

The road to Askja goes from road 1 to road 901 and onto mountain road F905. Onward to F910 to Drekagil. On this route there are two fords to cross, usually small. From Drekagil goes mountain road F894 (8 km) to the car park at Vikraborgir. Looking at these lunar landscapes, it does not surprise that Apollo astronauts were trained here in 1965 and 1967 for their landing on the moon. The walk from the car park at Vikraborgir to the crater Víti takes approximately 30-45 minutes.

If you continue inland, towards Vatnajökull glaicer, from Askja Caldera, you come to the youngest part of Iceland, Holurhraun lava from eruption 2016. Here you can walk on the new, completely black lava.Stay overnight in Mývatn area, same location as last night.

DAY 7 – SPRENGISANDUR HIGHLAND ROAD

Today you return to the south of Iceland across the highland road Sprengisandur F26. Prepare for desert like landscapes, stunning glacier views and dead silence. Make sure to stop at Aldeyjarfoss with majestic pillar basalt before leaving the north, situated inland near Bárðardalur. The route takes between the glaciers Hofsjökull and Vatnajökull. This is a remote gravel road, some un bridged rivers to be crossed. Remember to tank up before you start, and bring along picnic lunch and drinks, there is no service station along the route. You are experiencing the unspoiled highland nature, the gravel road the only man made structure, unique experience to be alone in the highlands. Stay overnight in Hrauneyjar highland center.

DAY 8 – LANDMANNALAUGAR

If you are longing to bathe in some of the natural hot springs Iceland is famous for, you will be delighted on a trip through the Fjallabak area and into the vibrant and colourful rhyolite mountains of Landmannalaugar, which offer both hot waters to soak in as well as many different hiking trails to pick from. Most popular are the path to Brennisteinsalda (“Sulphur Wave”) and the trail up the Bláhnjúkur (“Blue Peak”) volcano, from where you can enjoy a great panoramic view over 5 glaciers on clear days. On the way getting to Landmannalaugar, you can take a break at the crater lake Ljótipollur and Lake Frostastaðavatn.

After you are done visiting Landmannalaugar you continue south through the mountains and over to Kirkjubæjarklaustur area. Once arrived in Kirkjubæjarklaustur, as the Icelanders call the village, the small waterfall Systrafoss and Kirkjugolfið, the so-called “church floor”, a flat columnar basalt surface, are just in walking distance from the gas station. Stay three nights in Kirkjubæjarklaustur/Skaftafell area.

DAY 9 – SKAFTAFELL NATIONAL PARK AND JÖKULSÁRLÓN GLACIER LAGOON

Further east, nestled between two glacier tongues in the Vatnajökull National Park is Skaftafell, a true paradise for hikers and nature lovers. Even if you are not the type for wearing hiking boots, you do not want to miss the short and relatively easy hike up to the waterfall Svartifoss, beautifully framed by basalt columns. The glacier tongue Skaftafellsjökull makes also for a leisurely walk from the Tourist Info Centre in Skaftafell and lets you witness the recession of the ice during the last years. Another glacier tongue to visit is Svínafellsjökull few minutes away from Skaftafell, but you should never hike onto a glacier without a guide and the correct equipment.

In the afternoon, drive eastward along the edge of the Vatnajökull glacier. First you will reach the smaller glacial lagoon Fjallsárlón and, a little bit further, the more famous and bigger Jökulsárlón. A walk on the shore of the stunning lagoons, but especially on the black sands close to Jökulsárlón is an experience you will never forget. Even more breathtaking is a boat trip on an amphibian or zodiac amidst the drifting icebergs! As Jökulsárlón is connected to the sea, you stand a good chance of spotting seals here. Second overnight at Kirkjubæjarklaustur/Skaftafell area.

Suggested activity: Amphibian Boat Tour – Jökulsárlón.

DAY 10 – LAKAGIGAR

Most impressive crater row in Iceland is Lakagígar, where the vast eruption took place that formed this incredible lava landscapes in the region. Following the track F206 means having to ford/ cross several rivers on the way. The system erupted violently over an eight-month period between June 1783 and February 1784 leading to the death of over 50% of Iceland’s livestock population, and the destruction of the vast majority of all crops. This led to a famine which then killed approximately 25% of the island’s human population. The eruption ejected lava ash into the sky, effecting the climate of the globe, causing harvest to die in all of Europe. Historians have speculated if that was a causing factor in the French revolution. Today this area is famous for its otherworldy landscapes and popular amongst nature loving travellers. The road to the Laki craters (F 206) leaves the main road (1) by the farm Hunkubakkar, just south of Kirkjubæjarklustur. Distance is about 50 km, but traveling time should be estimated about 2 hours one way. Third overnight in Kirkjubæjarklaustur/Skaftafell area.

DAY 11 – THE SOUTH COAST

Another adventures day with diverse landscape awaits you. Your first visit could be to the bird cliffs of Dyrhólaey and the black, sandy beach of Reynisfjara with its fascinating basalt columns. In the summer months, this is a popular nesting area for the puffins. Please note: Reynisfjara and Vík are two of the most beautiful beaches in Iceland, but the sea here is very rough and there are strong currents right off the shore. Visitors are therefore advised to be careful, to watch the tides and keep a safety distance to the rolling waves in order to avoid accidents.

Next up is the very photogenic waterfall Skógafoss and the local folk- and transport museum at Skógar. A few kilometres further lies the notorious volcano Eyjafjallajökull. Driving further you reach the waterfall Seljalandsfoss. A walk behind this waterfall is often a quite wet, but always an unforgettable experience and (at least for the sure-footed) highly recommended! In town Hvolsvöllur you find the recently opened Lava Centre, the largest volcano and earthquake exhibition in Iceland as well as the very interesting Saga centre. Overnight stay in Reykjavík.

Suggested activity: Sólheimajökull Glacier Discovery AG101.

DAY 12 – REYKJAVĺK

Breakfast at the hotel. Drive to Keflavík International Airport and return your rental car.

End of your Iceland self-drive tour, filled with spectacular landscapes and unforgettable memories.